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View of Doc Ricketts' Pacific Biological Laboratories

View of Doc Ricketts’ Pacific Biological Laboratories

I’d wandered up and down that street a hundred times looking for the unassuming wooden facade. On two separate visits in the past four years, I looked for Ed “Doc” Ricketts’ Pacific Biological Laboratories, knowing it only from photographs published in the many biographies of John Steinbeck I’d read for my Masters’ thesis. It was the one remaining piece left to be placed in my quest to trace Steinbeck’s time in the Monterey Bay. Finally, two weeks ago, during an unseasonably warm mid-winter visit, I found myself unexpectedly face to face with the elusive lab. An incredible sense of fulfillment overwhelmed me as I realized the final piece had been placed.

View of the back yard of Doc Ricketts' lab, including holding tanks for specimens that were brought in from the Bay.

View of the back yard of Doc Ricketts’ lab, including holding tanks for specimens that were brought in from the Bay.

How had I missed it before? Perhaps construction on the adjacent hotel had covered the tiny building from view? Perhaps it was obscured by scaffolding, a truck, or one of the many throngs of tourists? Perhaps it had been in plain view all these years and I needed to find it now, as a reminder of just how satisfying it is to come across another literary jewel. This tiny plank-covered building was an epicenter of inspiration back in the early 1930s. Steinbeck spent mass amounts of time here with his buddy Doc. They studied sea life, traveled through the bay and beyond in search of new discoveries and gleaned from each other a sense of camaraderie that endures through the words of Steinbeck in books like Cannery Row and The Sea of Cortez.

On the front porch of Doc Ricketts' lab

On the front porch of Doc Ricketts’ lab

Although my thesis (Literary Legacies) was completed four years ago, the thrill of sitting on the front porch of one of Steinbeck’s classic haunts remains. A spirit of inspiration, friendship and discovery radiates from that place, and will continue to do so thanks to the fact that the building  has been put on the National Registry of Historic Places. Few other people walking by recognized its significance. Two other couples stopped to take photos, but most tourists walking by were too distracted by the looming Monterey Bay Aquarium next door to realize the significance of this tiny jewel of a shack that once lured intellectuals and philosophers amid the buzz of Cannery Row.

> Learn more historic detail in This article from NPR.

> Related post: Stevenson & Steinbeck in Monterey

Through Younger Eyes…

It’s been several months since my last post about Jack London’s Wolf House in Glen Ellen, Ca. I returned there today and was again inspired by the beauty and history of the place. This time I visited with a good friend and her family, including her two young sons. Seeing the place through the boys’ eyes was like visiting it again for the first time.

They noticed things like suspiciously placed hinges on a bookshelf,  mysterious passageways in the burned-out hull of Wolf House, a trap door leading (supposedly) to the basement of London’s cottage, and the surprisingly large collection of African spears displayed in the museum. They chased lizards down the rocky paths, were spooked by the century-old grave site, and explored every nook and cranny they found (even convincing me to follow them into a former pig pen on the ranch). London would have been proud.

These boys were captivated by the details and questioned everything; they led us down paths we may have otherwise ignored and opened our eyes to formerly overlooked nuances. They provided me with some much-needed perspective and served as a reminder of how important it is to retain an adventurous and inquisitive spirit.

I have always loved to buy books on the spot where they were written, so I secretly bought the boys their first copy of White Fang and Call of the Wild. Watching Nico immediately open it and start paging through warmed my heart. He carried it with him down the path to Wolf House, and while I know it will most likely lose attention to one of any kid’s many electronic distractions, I hope one day he’ll come across it, read my inscription and discover the words of the writer whose land we explored on this idyllic summer afternoon.

“Buck possessed a quality that made for greatness – imagination”
- The Call of the Wild

Wolf House

Like Steinbeck, Jack London always intimidated me. He still does. I can’t bring myself to sit down and delve into one of his novels out of fear that it will fail to fulfill my romantic inclinations. Maybe, like Steinbeck, he’ll surprise me. Of course,  I can appreciate his work and recall it from high school English classes. I remember the tales of Arctic survival, howling wolves and blustery blizzards. Though his work has yet to resonate with my literary interest, his biography fascinates me, and there’s plenty of romance there.

Viewing the haunting ruins of Wolf House

London was always on the periphery during my time growing up in Oakland. My parents took us frequently to Jack London Square and I remember distinctly the Last Chance Saloon that still stands at the Square, a remnant of the watering hole where London spent time and wrote. Next to it sits a recreation of the cabin he stayed in in the Yukon. It captivated my imagination as a child- even then I was interested in historical literary sites.

Recently my good friend, Ronda, and I took a day trip to Glen Ellen, in Sonoma County just about 45 minutes away from Napa, where Jack London resided from 1905 until he died in 1916. I’d always wanted to visit his “Beauty Ranch” and the remains of Wolf House, which burned to the ground in 1913. It was to be his dream home, which he would share with his wife Charmian. He put all he had – emotionally and financially – into the house, and he never fully recovered from the blow of losing it.

Blueprints for original house contrast with the ruins

What remains of Wolf House is now contained and managed by Jack London State Historic Park. It’s been beautifully preserved and stands as a haunting reminder of one man’s hopes and dreams. The Sonoma Valley was an oasis from the hustle of Oakland. Standing in the majestic silence amid towering trees, hiking over rocky trails, the allure of the space is unquestionable.

I circled the remains of Wolf House several times, conjuring the contradictory extremes of hope and disappointment that London must have experienced. The symbolism of the scene is something that will remain with me.

The London cottage

Also preserved on the property is the cottage where he and his wife lived, wrote and entertained. After Wolf House burned, they extended the home to include a writer’s study at the back of the cottage, where he died at just 40 years old. The cottage had an opposite feel from the charred remains of Wolf House. It looked warm and inviting, and it was easy to imagine the dinners and parties that the couple once hosted.

London's writer's den

A massive oak tree shades the home. It caught my eye immediately as I had just finished reading a book by Richard Horan, titled Seeds, which is about the trees that stand over the homes of famous literary figures and artists. There is no doubt that Jack London chose the location for the his cottage, in part, because of this gorgeous tree and that he enjoyed the shade and comfort of its massive arms.

The majestic oak

While the death of his dream home may have contributed to his untimate demise, London continued his attempt to live life to the fullest. His spirit lingers on that Sonoma mountain.  We must do what we can to help the Jack London State Historic Park continue to preserve his legacy. Please consider contributing to the California State Parks Foundation to support this park and the many others that enhance our lives so greatly.

“I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brilliant blaze
 
than it should be stifled by dry rot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time”

Jack London  (1876 – 1916)

A White Bird Flying

Her home was warm and welcoming. I always knew her kind smile and comforting words were close within reach. I was lucky to live just down the street from my grandmother for nine years, during which we  became close friends. She shared her experiences of living through the past decade, of the changes that she witnessed, and the memories of a slower, less complicated time. We’d look through letters my grandfather sent to her from his travels in the Navy, faded newspaper clippings of his ship’s progress in Alaska, and listen to old recordings of her brother’s swing band. I will always cherish that time and the spirit of our bond remains with me though life has forced us to separate.

One morning last month, my mom called to tell me that my grandmother hadn’t awoken and was being rushed to the hospital in Portland, where she lived with my Aunt and Uncle. I could tell by her anxious voice that the outlook was not good. I immediately thought of the last time I saw my grandmother, six months prior. I was thankful that I had taken the time to savor the time and have one last heart-to-heart with her. However, I couldn’t ignore the feeling of regret and sadness that permeated the air that morning. As I walked with a heavy heart over the wooden bridge that crossed the Napa creek on the way to work, I noticed a beautiful white egret, perfectly illuminated in the still waters. It stopped me in my tracks and immediately I felt a strong connection to my grandmother. Throughout the day, the egret remained perched elegantly on its stone. At about four in the afternoon, my mom called to tell me that my grandmother would not recover from the massive stroke she had suffered sometime during the previous night. It was a matter of hours or days. Hope seeped from my soul as the reality of the situation settled in. As I walked back to my car, the egret was gone. I would not see it again until one week later, when my grandmother’s heart finally stopped beating.

The call came just after noon on that rainy day. A good friend had delivered a bouquet of white flowers to my office earlier in the week. I took a single gentle daisy from its arrangement and walked through the drizzle to the bridge, where I dropped the flower over the side and watched it flow down the current, past the egret and into the distance.

Later that day, I was reminded of a writer whom my grandmother used to admire. I had asked her years ago about authors she liked and she mentioned a woman from Nebraska named Bess Streeter Aldrich. I decided to look her up online and found, much to my surprise, that the first title to emerge by her was A White Bird Flying. The coincidence left me awestruck. I purchased the book and awaited its arrival.

Joe & Virginia Nalty, 1941

In the mean time, arrangements were made for my grandmother’s funeral. Family and friends gathered to remember this amazing woman, who had had such a positive effect on everyone she encountered. Her charm and generosity is well reflected in the children, grandchildren and great grandchildren that continue to embody her legacy. Following the funeral, as I walked out of the church, my Uncle Vic took my arm and pointed to the sky, where two lovely white birds were flying overhead.

The book arrived upon my return home. I immediately began to read it and could hardly believe the words in front of me. A White Bird Flying is written from the perspective of a young woman coming to terms with the death of her beloved grandmother. The first chapter takes place just days after the funeral, as the girl walks through her grandmother’s home and faces the memories they shared together. I could have written the words myself and was deeply moved by the sentiment. The white bird symbolizes the hopes and dreams the two had forged for her life, and the remainder of the book takes us on that journey. The symbol of the bird stays with her throughout her life and guides her to follow her hopes and dreams.

Quite suddenly, in fancy she caught in the far distance a glimpse of silver wings. It gave her a warm thrill of gratification too deep for words. Immediately she knew through some inner consciousness, that no matter where life’s paths would lead her, – through sharp and stony ways or beside still waters, – buried deep within her was an indestructible capacity to visualize a white bird flying. She might never get close to the way of its winging, but always there would be joy in lifting her eyes to the glory of its distant flight.

Virginia Nalty, Nebraska, 1930s

I can imagine my grandmother reading this book as a young girl. It was published in 1931, and my grandmother left Nebraska with her family in the late 1930s when she was a teenager and moved to Oakland, California. After reading the book, I can see how she connected with the characters and the landscape. My grandmother never forgot where she came from and spoke often of her memories of growing up in Nebraska. The vast plains stayed with her, as did this author who captured it in words. The writer could never have known the effect her book would have 81 years after its publication, or how remarkably meaningful it would be for me to come upon it.

Final visit, August 2011

The main character in the book has grand dreams of a fulfilling life. She is inspired by her grandmother, who, like my own, had lived a long, rich life and worked hard to fulfill her dreams. She experienced the great romance, the loving family, life-long friendships and a life lived without regret. These accomplishments are my inspiration.

Call it coincidence or serendipity, fate or divine intervention… however it happened, my grandmother spoke to me through a white bird and  provided an invaluable final thread to tie together all the lessons she taught me during her life. I can think of no more fitting goodbye.

Here’s to you, Gram… you will never be forgotten. 1920-2012.

Inspired Resolutions

The end of the year naturally evokes nostalgia, reminders of memorable moments from the past 12 months and thoughts of resolutions for the coming year. I thought I might set a few of these wishes for the new year to literature that has crossed my path in 2011…

  1. Scribe Winery Dinner, March

    Live in the moment. Lesson learned from Hemingway’s A Movable Feast.
    It’s a simple concept that constantly eludes me. It encompassed an entire semester of my Master’s program at St. Mary’s College, in our first class titled simply, “Time.” I think about living in the moment frequently, but that seems to defeat the whole purpose. It happens only when you completely and subconsciously surrender to the flow of the moment, and once you realize you’re doing it, it’s over. I think often of a book we read in that class titled Pilgrim at Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard. She writes about viewing a perfectly illuminated tree while standing at a gas station. The tree absorbed her every sense at that moment and allowed her to experience the essence of the moment. Likewise, Hemingway wrote about his golden days of living in Paris in A Movable Feast, days during which he surrendered to the moments and undoubtedly found the greatest fulfillment of his life. The book inspired me to grasp onto my own moments that keep me most fulfilled. Moments like dancing under the stars at a summer backyard party, a candlelight meal on a rainy evening in a wine cave, grilling hot dogs and sharing a bottle of wine with a good friend in my backyard on the 4th of July, kayaking in still ocean waters, watching in solitude a passing hailstorm cover the surrounding rooftops in a sheer blanket of white. Whether at a party surrounded by music, friends and wine or sitting quietly on my patio watching the sun hit the trees, I resolve to live more in the moment.

  2. San Juan Island sunset, August

    Observe and appreciate the details. Lesson learned from Jane Austen’s Persuasion.
    My book club devoted one of its summer meetings to a classic by the unwitting mother of all romantic comedies, Jane Austen. What I will always love about Austen is her attention to detail, her ability to capture the weight of a moment with a single glance or movement of a hand. She is a master of observation and an expert at interpreting the subtle nuances that can change the course of an entire relationship. Experience has provided me with my own insight into such details, but I resolve to appreciate them more and listen to what they might be trying to communicate.

  3. Birthday party under the stars, August

    Let go of the past. Lesson learned from Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby.
    I just re-read The Great Gatsby, long-claimed as my favorite book, after giving one of my copies to a good friend as a Christmas gift and realizing that I couldn’t recall some of the details of the story. The poetry of the writing reminded me why I fell in love with it so long ago. And reading it now, with more of life’s experience behind me, the lessons of the book were much more vivid. Gatsby was the ultimate romantic. He held on to the dream of his ideal goal (in his case, Daisy Buchanan), until it finally killed him. The book is, in essence, a cautionary tale about not obsessing over a single goal in one’s life. I resolve to keep moving forward, to respect the flow of the current, and to explore the paths that emerge before me.

  4. Blame Keats. Lesson learned.
    It became vividly clear to me this year that Keats is my Kryptonite when it comes to romance. I resolve simply to use much caution when approached by a man spouting the odes of my favorite romantic poet.
  5. That being said, I also resolve to hold tight to my romantic nature (Austen), to attempt to live more simply (Thoreau), embrace my creativity (Bronte), continue to throw great parties (again, Austen), treat everyone fairly and without prejudice (Steinbeck), and cultivate deep and meaningful relationships (all of the above). Here’s to an inspired 2012!

Literary Libation

Autumn in Napa

Wine is in the air in the Napa Valley. Literally, at this time of year you can smell the scent of fermenting grapes in the autumn air. It’s one of my favorite things about this place, especially at this time of year, when all senses are engaged by the art of wine making.

Mutineer Magazine Cocktail Competition on stage at the Napa Valley Opera House

While wine is plentiful in this region, cocktails are harder to come by. Due to tight licensing laws, only a few bars in downtown Napa can serve a martini. And so, when young media/cocktail luminary Alan Kropf started planning the third-annual red carpet party and cocktail competition for the his publication, Mutineer Magazine, I knew it would be one hell of a party. One week ago, 250 stylish guests followed the spotlights to the Napa Valley Opera House, which had been transformed into a hip nightclub for the night. I’m the Marketing Director for the Opera House, so I’ve seen it transformed for everything from weddings to masquerade balls, but this was by far the hottest vibe that venue has experienced since it opened 131 years ago.

Sir Alan Kropf and the lovely Ashley

What could make it better? Ginger-inspired cocktails inspired by The King’s Ginger. This makes me very happy. If there’s a cocktail infused with ginger on a menu, I’ll take it. At this party, eight of the best bartenders in

Napa competed for the coveted winning concoction. The music bumped, friends swayed and circled, and Napa’s cocktail revolution officially kicked into full swing.

It was an event worthy of hijacking my blog for a few paragraphs. Fitzgerald had slightly different motives in mind for Gatsby’s lavish parties, and Hemingway may have preferred an absinthe competition, but  this was an event that surely would have pleased the Jazz Age writers and revelers.

Mutineer fans huddle around the bar for cocktail tasting

Wine, scotch, absinthe, beer, champagne… these libations are central to so many works of literature. Where would The Great Gatsby be without the champagne-doused soirees?Henimgway without his beer-fueled tirades? Even Jane Austen wrote about drinking claret (a Bordeaux wine). Of course, it doesn’t always paint a pretty picture. Steinbeck vividly captured the horrific effects of alcoholism in several books, including The Grapes of Wrath, the Brontes suffered the ill effects of their brother’s constant over indulgence and it’s hard not to shun off alcohol all together after delving into any of Eugene O’Neill’s plays.

The best book club ever salutes Mutineer Magazine

However, there’s no arguing the power of liquid spirits to spur creativity and enhance a celebration. Cheers to the Mutineers, who encourage responsible imbibing and are leading the way to a revolution in the culture of adult beverages. Let’s keep wine and cocktails co-existing peacefully in the Napa Valley.

In Europe then we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food and also as a great giver of happiness and well being and delight. Drinking wine was not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult; it was as natural as eating and to me as necessary.

- A Moveable Feast, Hemingway

Fall in Napa + good friends = pure happiness

My Moveable Feast

photo thanks: Ann Trinca

I’m fairly certain that Ernest Hemingway would be right at home in the Napa Valley. Like his beloved Paris of the 1920s, modern-day Napa is a place of creativity, passion and celebration. You can find yourself at a party or event nearly every night of the year. People here work hard in order to enjoy a decadent lifestyle centered around fine wine, gourmet food and beautiful surroundings.

My most memorable summers have been spent in this valley and this year was no exception. In just the past week I’ve had the fortune to dance under a starry night, swim under a cloudless sky, enjoy incredible meals, and toast summer weddings, birthdays, love and life with some of the greatest people I’ve ever known.

In the mean time, inspired by movies like Woody Allen’s recent Midnight in Paris, and my book club’s choice of The Paris Wife, I’ve absorbed myself in Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast. How I’ve never read this book is beyond me. It is brilliant. I’ve always been wary of Hemingway, turned off by the masculine, gruff writing  that I remember from high school English classes. However, like I experienced recently with Steinbeck, his non-fiction blew me away. The straightforward prose of both writers only contributes to the honesty laid out on the page.

Hemingway thrived on his connection with other icons of the time. The nuances of historic literary figures like Gertrude Stein and F. Scott Fitzgerald are articulated so perfectly and their influence on the young writer is clear. He surrounded himself with inspiration. They laughed, danced and drank their way through this luminous time in their life. Eventually reality catches up with all of us, but these bits of life’s brilliance remain, as Hemingway captured in a letter to a friend thirty years after the Parisian interlude of his youth: “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then where ever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”

These end-of-summer days in Napa are the ones I know will stay with me. They make me incredibly grateful for all I have. The people around my table, with whom I share a bottle of wine, laugh about the foibles of dating, and celebrate milestones are the characters who form my own moveable feast. Napa, like Paris, is the perfect backdrop.

photo thanks: Robb McDonough

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